The French Riviera: A Timeless Blend of Glamour and Art
For over 160 years, the azure hues of the French Riviera—stretching from Menton to Cannes and Saint-Tropez—have fueled the dreams of France’s most glamorous enclave. A land that once captivated artists like Picasso, Chagall, and Braque, it was here in Nice and the Bay of Angels that Matisse finally found the luminous light he had sought across the world. This same allure drew Europeans, particularly the British, during the Grand Tour era, establishing the Riviera as the Mediterranean’s premier destination for leisure and seaside tourism. Today, the myth of the Côte d’Azur endures—a French paradise of luxury, casinos, yachting, jet-set glamour, and beaches where winter never comes. Yet it remains a haven for artists and creatives, who continue to gather here to work, open studios, and live inspired lives.
You don’t need to be a saint to check into Le Couvent. Everyone can appreciate the zen vibe that is part of this 17th-century Monastery of the Poor Clares, recently rescued after having been abandoned for decades by visionary Parisian entrepreneur Antoine Grégo. He has transformed the building into a hotel of contemplative luxury with a secular monastic mood where guests can experience firsthand "a night at the convent"; charming, elegant rooms have been carved from former cells, the old nuns' refectory is now a gourmet organic restaurant, and the swimming pool nestles between terraced gardens and vegetable plots overlooking Nice. It’s a breathtaking view and reason enough in itself to visit.
Stroll along the seafront Promenade des Anglais to take in the rhythm of the city. It was laid out two centuries ago by British aristocrats who travelled to this pearl of the French Riviera to escape London's rain, in the company of Her Majesty Queen Victoria who often stayed in Nice: the sumptuous Hotel Regina (now a residence) that dominates the hill of Cimiez is named after her. You can explore the museum dedicated to Henri Matisse, a painter and artist perpetually in search of lumière, the light he so much desired, only to recognize that he had found it right here, in the Baie des Anges. Treat yourself to a gourmet feast at the starred restaurant of South African chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s whose Mediterranean fine dining experience is inspired by his native land with intriguing "sweet and savory" combinations and spicy, smoky flavours.
By inertia, by choice, and by reputation the trip continues to Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc by Oetker Collection in Cap d'Antibes. The experiential luxury of this hotel is considered an absolute destination, as much as the Musée Picasso which houses 23 paintings, 44 drawings, and dozens of ceramics by the Spanish painter.
The approach to Cannes speaks for itself. This town, where actors and actresses dream of the Palme d'Or, has become the most glamorous in France and the most desired by premium and ultra-luxury sectors. The Croisette, with its eighty-odd fashion and cosmetics boutiques says everything; not even Avenue Montaigne in Paris can boast this. Residences in the most prestigious neighbourhoods change hands for €20-€30 million euros. And the hotels – here called ‘Palaces’- defy categorization, offering a legendary level of hospitality. Take the newly renovated Carlton, for example: this glittering star in the firmament of hospitality with its ‘elegantissimo’ dress code is a crossroads of guests who feel quite at home behind the beautiful façade topped by twin domes. The interior is enhanced by a lovely internal courtyard garden, its panoramic terrace home to a restaurant – Rüya – which serves refined fusion cuisine inspired by Anatolia.
Stretched for time? Of course. But haste doesn't sit well in charming Cannes, equally beloved by yachties who shuttle between the piers of Port Canto and the crystal-clear waters that frame the nearby Lérins islands aboard their fabulous vessels and by gourmets who book special evenings at the Palme d'Or at the Martinez or at chef Pierrick Cizeron’s restaurant in boutique hotel Mondrian. And also, by culture hounds attracted to elegant Belle Époque villa La Malmaison, recently renovated after years of restoration work to house masterpieces of modern and contemporary art by the likes of Monet, Renoir, and Cézanne. But even Cannes' glow cannot overshadow the "village perché," the perched village of Mougins, an iconic retreat for the numerous collectors, designers, writers, and actors such as Christian Dior, Georges Simenon, Catherine Deneuve, and Yves Saint-Laurent who have chosen to stay here, some for many years. Still thriving today, it is home to the FAMM Museum entirely dedicated to women artists of the caliber of Marina Abramovich, Berthe Morisot, and Frida Kahlo.
A final stop on the French Riviera, is ‘de rigueur’. Saint-Tropez, an old fishing port of only 4,000 inhabitants, was elevated to iconic status as an exclusive seaside resort in the 1950s thanks to Roger Vadim's film "And God Created Woman" with Brigitte Bardot. Today, is it rightfully considered to be the hotspot of the French Riviera and the international jet set. The shop windows of Place de la Garonne and rue François Sibilli are covetable and the hotels that compete in terms of charm and prestige are almost theatrical.
There's the Cheval Blanc, owned by the LVMH group, housed in a near century-old villa with interiors revisited by designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte and ennobled by a three-star restaurant – La Vague d'Or – where you can sample the impeccable creations of chef Arnaud Donckele. Nearby, the Byblos, La Réserve, La Bastide take the stage while in neighbouring La Croix-Valmer, ‘chapeau’ to the Lily of the Valley designed with Provençåle references Philippe Starck. Its glamorous wellness programme involves guests in regenerative activities including yoga sessions and gentle sports while the balanced yet generous gourmet offering, in keeping with the philosophy of nutritionist Jacques Fricker, encourages pleasure rather than deprivation.
And for the ultimate endorphin boost? At sunset, head for Ramatuelle and one of the uber-chic clubs such as 55, Verde Beach or Loulou which front the mythical Pampelonne beach and are a true Shangri-La for anyone who values exclusivity but who also yearns for a little craziness. Finally, fall into bed with that very best, and rarely disappointing, of companions: a good book.
Text by Paolo Galliani - a journalist who has lived between Milan and Nice for more than 20 years.
